See the dark side of Dominican history at Museo de La Resistencia

According to two of Rafael Trujillo's biographers, Eric Roorda and Bernard Diederich, the dictator was a humble cattle thief and check forger before he set his sights on politics. His first act of leadership was starting a street gang of violent thieves called 42, and for many who survived it, Trujillo's entire rule had a flavor of criminality, characterised by the silencing of opponents using physical and psychological tactics.

Trujillo later joined the army, mysteriously skyrocketing from cadet to commander in chief in just nine years. From this point, it wasn't far to being the head of the police and then, after a coup d'etat, on to the presidency itself.

Trujillo was eventually assassinated in 1962 and subsequently buried in Spain. In contrast, hundreds of Dominican families were never able to bury loved ones who disappeared while fighting Trujillo as part of La Resistencia - “the resistance”.

Steel yourself before entering the museum, because it isn't easy to get through - especially the room that highlights the methods of torture used during Trujillo's 30-year rule.

The first exhibit at the museum talks about the myths created during the Trujillo era, particularly the myths that the government functioned more efficiently and the Dominican economy improved during Trujillo’s dictatorship.

The majority of exhibits are about the clandestine movements that opposed Trujillo’s oppression, and the fates suffered by group members and their families. Highlights include the leftist “14th of June Movement”, made up of over 300 rebels working together, including the famous Mirabal Sisters.

Visitors can learn how the three Mirabal Sisters - now cultural icons of the Dominican Republic - assisted the resistance before they were cruelly executed by Trujillo. If you want to learn about the Mirabal sisters before you visit, check out our article on the top five books you should read before you visit the DR.

A room is also dedicated to the 12,000 Haitians killed (some estimate as many as 35,000) as part of Trujillo’s ethnic cleansing of the Dominican Republic.

The museum hopes "to cultivate civic virtues in responsible citizens to avoid abuse and violence on the part of the state and groups in power" so that atrocities like those carried out under Trujillo’s regime can never happen again.

The Dominican Resistance Memorial Museum is located in the Colonial Zone of Santo Domingo on #21 Calle Arzobispo Noel, and is open Tuesday - Sunday, 9:30 AM - 6:00 PM.

Admission is 150 pesos (roughly US $3). For groups of more than five, a guide is available for an extra 500 pesos (roughly US $10), and audio guides can be loaned for 40 pesos (roughly US $1).

*Note that all indicative costs in US dollars were accurate at the time of writing based on an exchange rate of US $1 = 53.14 DR pesos

Written by G. Abdullah.

Published July 2020